The City

Valparaiso is our last stop in Chile, before we head west towards Robinson Crusoe Island and beyond.

Valparaiso is the largest shipping port in Chile (did you notice where your supermarket grapes came from recently? Or that bottle of Concha Y Toro wine? Probably from here). It's like a fishing village the size of a medium-sized city. It has a certain "third world" quality with outdoor markets selling seasonal fruits and vegetables, dried as well as fresh fish (5 for 500 pesos, a bit less than US$1). Outside the supermarkets, vendors hawk corn on the cob, socks, or what-have-you; a pitiful old man is trying to sell heads of garlic to grocery shoppers as they exit). Yet, the city also has the modern infrastructure (banking, shipping) commensurate with a major shipping port. Only about 60 miles from Chile's largest city, Santiago, and immediately adjacent to the resort town of Viña del Mar, Valparaiso looks sort of neglected. Personally, I think there is a certain "run down charm" to the place.

We've been to Valparaiso before; it was the terminus of a previous cruise on the Holland America Zaandam <<link TBS -- Patagonia 11/02 trip>> Interesting a place as it may be, we are still reveling in Antarctica.

The Hunt

So while our Highly Educated, Significantly-Aged, Much-More-Affluent-than-Us shipmates went up to the lake, or chartered a helicopter, or whatever they did, we... went on a "death march" to find tonic water, that Scott might not have to cross the Pacific Ocean without the benefit of tonic water to complement his Tanqueray, (or, God forbid, to have to pay the ship $1.50 per can). And we bought a few other conveniences for the cabin.

We enjoy this sort of "hunt". It's good but easy (and purposeful) free exercise; you encounter local people instead of cruise passengers looking for trinkets, see interesting stuff along the way, and it provides a sort of scavenger-hunt like game that might take us anywhere in the city that our legs allow. Oh, and it saves money!

We especially enjoy foreign supermarkets -- it's always interesting to see what "locals" shop for. Chile has a obvious sweet-tooth with pastelerias (pastry shops) and panaderias (bread bakeries) on every corner. Supermarkets have a remarkable number of unique breads here, too. And wine, beer, and pisco. One-stop shopping -- unless you're looking for tonic. Our quarries for this "hunt" included rum, pisco, gin, tonic, limes, wine (see a trend here? Long trip). Electrical extension cord. Extra hangers. Laundry service for our stinky clothes.

We were largely successful -- except for the gin & tonic. It's a national conspiracy, we tell you! Aside from a very large, expensive shops, the gin selection is pretty bad (and Scott's standards aren't that high). No viable gin located. Tonic? Seems to come in two varieties: 2L (half gallon) bottles and latas cortas (short cans) -- but only of diet tonic, which is... disgusting.

Hanging our heads in shame, and after a six hour death march, we returned to the ship with our other provisions. Five liters (about 11lbs) of Chilean wine. A bottle of rum. A 1L bottle of tonic. 'Couple of Cokes. The extension cord. And a few more "household" items to help render our cabin, "home", for the rest of our trip.

Photo at right: Minibar with Toes.

The New Kids

Valparaiso was the first port where any significant number of passengers joined the ship (if you're keeping score, 300 got off, 200 new ones got on; a Japanese group of about 30 had departed in Puerto Montt). The personality of the ship has changed; the new passengers are decidedly younger. Many of the same countries -- Britain, Australia, but there are two groups of Canadians totaling 60 or so. Nice addition. Canadians are wonderful people, and they don't hate us (Americans) quite as much as so many folks do, these days.

The Way West

Tomorrow starts the change of direction toward the South Pacific, with stops at Robinson Crusoe (a day at sea, half a day on RCI), followed by two days at sea to reach Easter Island (Isla de Pasquas). You can chart our progress on this map -- and we hope you do.