The Big City

Since we'll be returning to Auckland in ten days, so we used our stop here to catch up on all our errands – first chance to do our laundry since Valparaiso, Chile (we'd been washing some stuff by hand, but basically everything we brought was dirty – three loads-worth).

We set up our laptops at an Internet- café and did all the bill paying and downloads that had been pending. Got haircuts. Restocked the bar. Not exciting, just necessary. Weather was perfect and Auckland is a nice city even if it it lacks the "small town charm" of some of NZ's others. Nice to be back in the first world for a couple weeks. We did have a chance to have coffee with a distributor that Scott used to work with in South Africa – he emigrated to NZ about six years ago. Interesting to hear his views on both NZ & SA and Scott enjoyed catching up with a favorite ex-colleague.

Stinky Town

Next day, we docked in Tauranga, the nearest port city to Rotorua, home of all the geothermal areas and New Zealand Backpacker Central, dude. It was an hour+ drive to reach Rotorua We didn't want to do a minibus tour with 10 people stuffed in a van. And the cost of a taxi for the day was too high. So, we ended up renting a car. Not a big deal, but they drive on the left here, and that's pretty nerve-wracking. But Scott was up to it, so off we went. The driving went swimmingly -- except for the one time Scott made a right turn into the right lane (seemed logical at the time... fortunately nobody else was in the lane at that moment) and once when Kathy freaked out also because we were again in the right hand lane -- but we were on a one-way section of road at the time.

We filled the car up with gas, returned to the ship where Scott drank heavily (the health profession calls this "self medicating"). Driving on the opposite side of the road isn't that challenging, but it calls for constant concentration -- else you fall in to old habits from having driven the last 30 years on the other side. Coincidentally, the last time Scott'd driven on the left side -- was in New Zealand -- same area -- a few years prior.

The thermal areas are caused by a magma spike that is much closer to the surface than normal. The result is sulfur-smelling steam, boiling water, bubbling mud. If you've been to Yellowstone, you know what it's like. (If you don't, check out this video clip of boiling mud [Real Player format]).

Unlike Yellowstone, there were several different thermal areas spread out around different spots in a 25 km diameter circle, and they were privately owned. This whole area was popular with the Maori in pre-European times – providing warmth in the winter, and an easy way to cook year round.

Hmmm... doesn't sound pleasant	MMay 24, 2006center" class="style2">Darwinism?
Don't play in this mud puddle

Engaging Museum

The Rotorua Museum had just undergone a major overhaul, and it was excellent. Really innovative. All museums try to educate you, but few entertain at the same time. This one was brilliant.

The museum is housed in what was a bathhouse from the turn of the last century, where people came to “take the cure” – soaking in various hot mineral baths and hot mud, depending on the specific ailment. Upkeep was a nightmare – the waters had hydrogen sulfide and other corrosive substances – ate the pipes right up.

Rotorua Museum	Mudbath display

There are still several spas in the area for people to bathe in the hot water, or cover themselves with mud. Presumably, they use plastic pipes so there is less maintenance. We ran out of time to take a mudbath – maybe next time.